Cranberries and Earth: Guide to Oregon Pinot Noir

Written by Madeline Puckette

If you’re wondering what Oregon wine is really like and want to understand the region a little better, this guide will help you understand the grape varieties, the sub-regions, and the tastes that make Oregon wine so unique. In particular, we’ll be talking mostly about Oregon’s largest region: The Willamette Valley, which is known for Oregon Pinot Noir.

Q: What Does Oregon Do Best?

A: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay

Oregon Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley

Oregon’s most important grape is Pinot Noir, followed by Pinot Gris, and finally, Chardonnay, which is 3rd in terms of production. Production is about 1% of California’s volume, but it’s growing. The primary focuses in Oregon are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sparkling wine — it’s practically the spitting image of Burgundy, France.
 

What Does Oregon Pinot Noir Taste Like?

If I had to pick only two words to describe Oregon Pinot Noir, they would be ‘cranberries’ and ‘earth.’ The rustic quality of Oregon Pinot Noir doesn’t always appeal to California wine enthusiasts who enjoy fruit-forward wines. So be warned, you’re entering a different world. Oregon red wines are nuanced and subtle, with high acidity that doesn’t always explode with lusty fruit.

Two words: Cranberries and earth

BUYING TIP: If you spend a little over $30, the taste of Oregon Pinot Noir changes remarkably. It goes from a rustic-and-choppy wine to liqueur-of-black-cherries and velvet in a glass. But why?

Why Does Oregon Pinot Noir Have Such a Wide Range of Tastes?

Pinot Noir Grapes in Oregon
Pinot Noir is a sensitive guy. Photo by Jim Fischer.

Oregon is damp and highly dependent on weather year in and out. So, where the grapes grow really matters. There are three major influences on the taste of Oregon Pinot Noir:

  • Vintage variation: Inclement weather in the spring and fall greatly affect the taste of that year’s wine.
  • Vineyard location: Morning fog in the Willamette Valley means south-facing slopes are ideal. See below to understand the subregions in the Willamette Valley.
  • Complexity and body from oak aging: Certain winemakers focus on fancier oak programs with high quality French oak barrels and longer aging. In Oregon Pinot Noir, French oak adds cinnamon, clove, and vanilla notes to the wine. Wines with less oak often get their body and tannin from grape skins and tend to be slightly more bitter. This is an important factor to consider when searching for the style you like.

 

How Do I Seek Out the Best Oregon Pinot Noir?

Take a moment to understand the Willamette Valley by reading about each region below. Then, pick a sub-region that fits your personal style and give it a whirl! You can try an affordable ($20) bottle from a good vintage or expect to spend about $40 on something fantastic.


The Willamette Valley, Oregon’s oldest wine region, is in the northwest corner. The most up-to-date Oregon map is included in Wine Folly’s Complete Map Set, 2nd Edition.

Willamette Valley Sub-Regions

The Willamette Valley is a wide south-to-north-oriented valley on the eastern side of Oregon’s Coast Range. The mountains are a slight buffer to the ragingly cold Oregon coast, but the valley still experiences some of the wettest conditions of any wine region. So, where are the good spots for growing wine grapes?

The Willamette Valley has been carved into several sub-AVAs that are noted for their ability to ripen Pinot Noir perfectly. There are eleven sub-AVAs within the Willamette Valley AVA. Let’s check out what makes some of ‘em unique and what wines you might check out as a banner example of that sub-region.


Chehalem Mountains (2,600 acres planted)

Cherry, Black Tea, & Cinnamon

The Chehalem Mountains are the hills to the southwest of Portland. If you’re traveling to Oregon by plane, this is the first place you’ll hit. The vineyards here are experiencing some exceptional growth due to their proximity to the city. Some of the more bold Pinot Noir wines come from the Chehalem Mountains AVA. Expect cherry, black tea, and cinnamon.

Notable producers in Chehelam Mountains: J. Christopher, Raptor Ridge, Rex Hill, Sineann, Ponzi Vineyards, Six Peaks


Ribbon Ridge (500 acres planted)

Cranberries & Dirt

Ribbon Ridge is actually in the Chehalem Mountains, but because it’s on the southern lip of the mountains with a slightly different soil and weather type, it earned its own AVA. Ribbon Ridge is where you’ll find the intense cranberry flavors and rustic, earthy notes that are recognized as Oregon Pinot Noir.

Notable producers in Ribbon Ridge: Beaux Freres, Brick House Vineyards, Patricia Green Cellars


Dundee Hills (2,220 acres planted))

Raspberry & Black Tea

Some of the oldest vineyards are in this area, including Eyrie Vineyards, which was the first to plant the area in 1965. Not only will you find excellent Pinot Noir, but there’s also Chardonnay and sparkling wines. Dundee Hills has a high density of wine growers here, making it a good area to visit. Pinot Noir from Dundee Hills offers up raspberry and black tea aromas.

Notable producers in Dundee Hills: The Four Graces, Domaine Serene, ROCO Winery, Archery Summit, White Rose, Eyrie Vineyards, Willful Wine Co, Torii Mor


Yamhill-Carlton (1,200 acres planted)

Black Cherries and Vanilla

Yamhill-Carlton’s best vineyards are on the low rolling hills to the southwest of Ribbon Ridge. It stays hotter later in the afternoon in this area, so you’ll find fruit-forward black cherry flavors in the Pinot Noir wines in and around Yamhill-Carlton. The area is very spread out in terms of driving, and you’ll find yourself driving many miles in between vineyards.

Notable producers in Yamhill-Carlton: Big Table Farm, Shea Wine Cellars, Anne Amie Vineyards, WillaKenzie Estate, Penner-Ash, Soter, Belle Pente


McMinnville (600 acres planted))

Plum & Pine

A growing area named after the unbelievably quaint city of McMinnville. The south-facing vineyards make some rich dark cherry and plum-like flavored Pinot Noir. You’ll find the slope angle really makes a difference in the flavor of McMinnville wines. Some of the wines are very rustic, with pine and herb notes.

Notable producers in McMinnville: NW Wine Company, Hyland Estates, Yamhill Valley Vineyards


Eola-Amity Hills (1,300 acres planted)

Plums, Currants, and 5-spice

This wine area spans along a low set of hills that lead south into the state capitol of Salem, Oregon. All of the best vineyards are on southeastern-facing slopes that run along the 221 Highway. It’s actually an amazing drive because the flatlands are exploding with hops farms that lead into the vineyards in the hills. Pinot Noir from Eola-Amity Hills has rich plum and currant flavors with subtle 5-spice aromas.

Notable producers in Eola-Amity Hills: Cristom, St. Innocent, Evesham Wood


Other Willamette Valley Sub-AVAs

  • Lower Long Tom AVA (575 acres planted)
  • Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA (684 acres planted)
  • Tualatin Hills AVA (1,009 acres planted)
  • Van Duzer Corridor AVA (1,000 acres planted)
  • Laurelwood District AVA (975 acres planted)

  • Wineries in Oregon
    Oregon does it different. Photo by Jim Fischer of Crowley Station Vineyards.

    Willamette Valley AVA (10,000 acres planted)

    The overarching Willamette Valley region contains all vineyards, including those outside of the sub-AVAs listed above. Wines labeled Willamette Valley could also be blends of several vineyards put together, which is quite common because vineyard sizes are small due to good available sloped and angled land.


     

    First Oregon Pinot: David and Diana Lett plant Pinot Noir in Dundee Hills in 1965
    True grit. Newly minted Oregonians David and Diana Lett plant Pinot Noir (1965). Courtesy Linfield College.
    Interestingly enough, I grew up in the Willamette Valley, which is a unique place. To paint you a picture of what it’s like:

    • One of my friends owned 60 cats.
    • My mom’s friends made me a black sheep wool blanket from her farm.
    • One friend rode her bike 12 miles to school daily.

    Oregon is like the backwoods of the West Coast: it’s one of the last stands of people maintaining the ideal of rugged individualism.

    Sources

    • In 2010, CA produced 606,448,660 gallons of wine compared to Oregon, which produced 4,140,000 gallons. Based on statistics at wineinstitute.org and oregonwine.org
    • Photo of Diana and David Lett courtesy of Linfield College, Willamette Valley Archive - The Eyrie Vineyards with assistance from Emily Richardson, Associate Director willamettewines.com
    • Acreage statistics also from Willamette Wines.

    Written byMadeline Puckette

    James Beard Award-winning author and Wine Communicator of the Year. I co-founded Wine Folly to help people learn about wine. @WineFolly